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Mark Twain Trail (Nr. 18)

Hikes · Switzerland
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  • Sun terrace of the Hotel Riffelhaus 1853 with view of the Matterhorn
    / Sun terrace of the Hotel Riffelhaus 1853 with view of the Matterhorn
    Photo: Zermatt Tourismus
  • / Ride on the Gornergrat Bahn cog railway to the start of the hike
    Photo: Zermatt Tourismus, Toni Mohr
  • / On Mark Twain Trail down to Riffelalp
    Photo: Zermatt Tourismus, Zermatt - Matterhorn
  • / Hotel Riffelberg in Mark Twain's day – taken from his book "Climbing the Riffelberg"
    Photo: Zermatt Tourismus, Verlag Dorfpresse
m 2700 2600 2500 2400 2300 2200 2100 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km Buffet & Bar Riffelberg Riffelhaus 1853 Bergbahnstation Riffelalp Al Bosco … m.ü.M. Alphitta
On the trail of the American writer Mark Twain: a pleasant walk on the Riffelberg with breathtaking views of the Matterhorn. In his satirical account "Climbing the Riffelberg", Mark Twain poked fun at the expeditions of the 19th century into the alpine world around Zermatt.
Distance 3.4 km
0:50 h
0 m
375 m
2,582 m
2,208 m

Recommended: "Climbing the Riffelberg", a booklet containing the narrative in both English and German. In it, Mark Twain (1835–1910) mocked the enormous fuss that surrounded expeditions in the 19th century to explore the mountains around Zermatt.

Pure entertainment and breathtaking views
Hikers who have prepared for their own personal expedition by reading the charming booklet can visit the Hotel Riffelberg right at the start of the trail to breathe some living alpine history. This is Zermatt’s oldest mountain hotel, built in 1855, and Mark Twain very probably spent the night here.

The trail then leads gently down to Riffelalp, where the Riffelalp Resort stands today. The original hotel was built between 1874 and 1884. It can be assumed that Mark Twain saw the hotel under construction, because he arrived in Zermatt on 27 August 1878 and stayed for a considerable time.

The hike and the booklet together promise a wonderfully entertaining experience, complete with glorious views of the Matterhorn, Weisshorn and the famous 4,000-metre peaks that frame Zermatt way below.

Author’s recommendation

You will find the highest tramway in Europe at Riffelalp.

Mark Twain’s “Climbing the Riffelberg” is suitable for this outing. This little book is available in German and the original English.

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Zermatt Tourismus
Update: November 13, 2020
Highest point
2,582 m
Lowest point
2,208 m
Best time of year

Rest stops

Buffet & Bar Riffelberg
Al Bosco - - Riffelalp Resort 2222 m.ü.M.
Riffelhaus 1853

Safety information

  • Plan every mountain tour carefully and adapt to participants’ fitness level as well as the weather and season.
  • Weather conditions can change quickly in the mountains. Appropriate clothing is therefore essential, along with adequate supplies of food and water. In uncertain weather, turn back in good time.
  • Inform others of planned route, and whenever possible avoid going alone.
  • Do not leave the marked routes; do not venture onto glaciers without a mountain guide.
  • Please be considerate to other walkers and to plants and animals.
  • Take note of the warning signs drawing attention to the constant danger in river beds and along watercourses below dams and reservoirs.

Tips and hints

More about Mark Twain in Zermatt


Riffelberg (2,582 m) (2,582 m)
2'624'507E 1'093'521N
45.992806, 7.754931
45°59'34.1"N 7°45'17.8"E
32T 403579 5094001


Riffelalp (2,211 m)

Turn-by-turn directions

Riffelberg - Riffelalp

(Hiking time in reverse direction: approx. 1h 10)

This hike is marked on the signposts as “Mark Twain Weg”.


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

By train to the Matterhorn village: 3½ hours from Zürich airport or 4 hours from Geneva airport. Change at Visp onto the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn (Matterhorn Gotthard Railway). From Visp, the railway leads through the Mattertal valley past idyllic small villages to Zermatt.

Zermatt is also the start and finish point for the world-famous Glacier Express panoramic train journey (Zermatt to St. Moritz or Davos).

Getting there

Zermatt is car-free. Private vehicles are permitted only as far as Täsch (5 km before Zermatt). The Täsch–Zermatt road is closed to the public.

Onward travel to Zermatt is either by private taxi or shuttle train. Trains depart every 20 minutes; the journey takes about 12 minutes, and ends at the Bahnhofplatz in Zermatt.


Täsch has car parks with both covered and open-air parking – e.g. at the Matterhorn Terminal or privately operated facilities.

Onward travel: see “Getting there”.


2'624'507E 1'093'521N
45.992806, 7.754931
45°59'34.1"N 7°45'17.8"E
32T 403579 5094001
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Mark Twain, "Climbing the Riffelberg/Riffelberg-Besteigung". Zweisprachige Ausgabe Deutsch/Englisch, Verlag Dorfpresse, CH-8135 Langnau, Schweiz, ISBN 3-905480-02-6

Author’s map recommendations

A walking map (1:25,000) is available from Zermatt Tourism’s guest information centre, along with brochures containing tips and recommendations.


We recommend:

  • Good footwear
  • Hiking poles (optional)
  • Clothing suitable for the weather (always carry a waterproof)

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3.4 km
0:50 h
375 m
Highest point
2,582 m
Lowest point
2,208 m
Scenic Refreshment stops available Cultural/historical interest Geological highlights Botanical highlights Cableway ascent/descent Flora and fauna Linear route


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